Kent has a relatively untapped culinary landscape, but has some hidden gems. Deeson’s is a quaint, family-run place but can it compete with their London cousins? Was is any good? Time to find out...
Ideal for:
Rustic, British dining
A break from London
Sampling Kentish produce
Ambience & Décor
A mere stone’s throw away from the world-famous Canterbury Cathedral, was this quaint, white façade restaurant. The countryside interior décor was as you imagined it – exposed section of bare brickwork, wooden fixtures and flooring. Art deco paintings and a decorative centre wall accentuate the picturesque settings. As a countryphile, I loved the look. Some Deeson's diners were dining al fresco to make the most of the sweltering conditions. For a Saturday evening, it was not packed, but Deeson's still had an enjoyable buzz.
Service
The waiting staff fit in two categories: university students or experienced staff, but both types delivered amazing service. Very attentive waiters brought the all the food with charming smiles. Granted the restaurant was not maximum capacity, but the service was decent.
Food
Family owned restaurants tend to take so much love and care over all aspects of the dining experience. Hearty portion full of flavour making use of the lovely Kentish produce.
The pan-fried wood pigeon entrée (left) was overcooked, hardening the meat. The wild mushrooms gave it a rustic twist but the pickled gooseberries were an oddity that did not work. Thankfully Deeson’s have since changed the accompaniment to the pigeon. Not the best start to the meal.
Kentish lamb is famed so expect much from the Salt marsh lamb (left). The lamb was ‘melt in your mouth’ succulent. The seasoning and spice infused in the meat meant flavour flowed from every tiny orifice. The buttery garlic mash was delicious and the sweet purée added flavour depth, whilst tempering the sharpness and richness from the thyme jus. The baby gem atop gave the dish much needed nutrition. This dish embodies Deesons; hearty dish prepared with much care and tenderness. The giant portion made it a struggle to finish.
I could only manage to sample the two desserts on offer. The white chocolate mousse (left) had a gelatinous dark chocolate top whose bitterness tempered the sickly sweetness from the white chocolate. The combination of cocoa nibs and passionfruit sorbet on the side was delicious and my favourite part of the dish.
The coconut panna cotta was served with mango sorbet, vanilla tuille on top and a mango and passionfruit salad (right). The trace of coconut will delight or disappoint diners whilst the fresh sorbet gave the needed tartness. Coupled with the tangy passionfruit salad, this could be an assault on the tastebuds if you do not have all three parts of the dish in a bite.
Even factoring in the cost of a rail ticket, it still makes Deeson’s a more attractive proposition than some of its London counterparts. Deeson’s offers the best of Kent; rustic, traditional, British cuisine with a modern twist. Happy to give Essen's first forage into Kent an A rating.
Photos of Deeson's and more can be found on Instagram here.
Final grade: A
Final comment: Fancy authentic British cuisine at a reasonable price? Come to Deeson's
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