My first post-lockdown restaurant had to be special. I have had my eye on Fallow for a while. Its sustainable dining model has been lauded by environmentalists and food critics alike, so was it any good? Time to find out...
Ideal for:
Those who want to satisfy their hunger and moral conscious all in one
A diverse dining party who needs a dish for everyone
An intimate lunch date in the heart of London
Ambience & Décor
Due to COVID-19 restrictions at the time, we were only able to eat al fresco. Surrounded by various, unpruned flora and tables made of repurposed wood, the sustainable dining theme was not subtle. Fallow’s slate-coloured, bare-brick façade was aesthetically pleasing and worked with the plants. I quite liked the rustic feel, and it was keeping with the ethos.
Service
Service was very attentive without being intrusive. I felt it was clean and professional but lacked the personality and warmth I was expecting.
Food
If all sustainable dining menus were like this, food wastage may be a thing of the past. Itching to try everything, ordered a medley of small dishes and a main. The Cobble Lane croqueta, black garlic paid the perfect homage to the Cobble Lane charcuterie and were divine. The Smoked beef dandy rib (see left) “nibble” was medium-rare (how I like it) tender and juicy. Meat was well seasoned flavoured without overshadowing the natural taste of the meat. Despite being called a nibble, the ribs were big.
Next up was the Crab cake, pickled lemon, samphire and the Cod’s head, Sriracha butter sauce. Again, the disparity in the portion size was immense. The Cod’s head was the size of a main dish in my eyes, but the fish was incredibly well cooked, flaky and moist. The Sriracha butter gave much-needed wetness, flavour and X-factor to elevate the dish. If you are a fish lover, this dish is a winner. The crab cake in comparison was morsel size, and for me, lacked flavour.
Finally, the Duck, pastilla, plum and chard (see right) main was a total knockout. Given all we had eaten so far, I was thankful the portion was manageable. 2 pieces from a duck breast that was cooked to pink perfection. The soft textured duck complemented well with the smooth, silky plum gel and the crunchy pastilla (effectively a duck spring roll). The chard added some token greenery and texture but added little in terms of flavour.
Overall, the food was a culinary delight, despite the crab cakes being a bust. The misleading menu led to criminal waste – I really hope they didn’t recycle our leftovers to another table! Like with most restaurants with a USP in London, you pay a premium for the concept, so not the best value for money. Despite these issues, I cannot overlook how the delicious dishes and, on that strength, alone, Fallow gets an A- rating.
Photos of Fallow and more can be found on Instagram here.
Final grade: A-
Final comment: Food here is expensive but brilliant. Beware of rogue portion sizes.
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