In a week where Goodman Canary Wharf blew me away with its steak, sides and service, I thought I would try the identical meal at Hawksmoor Borough. Could it compete? Was it any good? Time to find out…
Ideal for:
Casual dinner with mates
After work drinks
Steak lovers
Ambience & Décor
The standard blueprint of Hawksmoor interior design was followed; dim lighting and a medley of wooden fixtures and fittings. However, previously I have found it palatable, even charming, but here I found it a bit dingy and boxed in. My mood soured further once we were seated next to a loutish table that made talking difficult.
Service
Given it was a special occasion, I felt that we got a little more attention than other diners. The waiter was particularly helpful in educating us on the meat.
Food
For fair comparison to Goodman, we ordered the Portherhouse (900g) (left). Cooked medium rare, it became quickly evident that this was not in the same league as Goodman. The quality of the meat was good, cooked well in the main but needed a tad more seasoning. The peppercorn sauce was needed to add some depth and heat to the meal. Was good and probably better than most, but not quite of the same standard as other Hawksmoor branch or Goodman either.
The Macaroni cheese (left) was the best side. The cheese was not too pungent or overpowering, whilst being thick and creamy. The macaroni was perfectly cooked too. The Triple cooked chips (left) are always tasty; Hawksmoor had this nailed, whilst the Creamed spinach added nutritional balance.
The surprise dish of the night was the Grilled Lemon Sole (right). Not only was it superbly marinated, but the lemon sole was cooked to perfection and the fish flaked beautifully. This is one of their best dishes period.
Hawksmoor Borough produced an above average display. The steak needed to be better, the décor felt dreary and ambience was infuriating. The saving graces were the exceptional macaroni cheese and lemon sole in addition to the steady chips and spinach. Hawksmoor can do better, but it means Goodman keeps its place as the best steak place in London. The B Rating seems befitting.
Photos of Hawksmoor Borough and more can be found on Instagram here.
Final grade: B
Final comment: Hawksmoor Borough was nice but there are better branches out there.
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