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  • Writer's pictureAvi Sen

Jamavar (London)

Updated: Feb 12

Jamavar opened to such critical acclaim, earning its Michelin Star very quickly. Given my penchant for Indian food, had to check it out. But was it any good? Time to find out...

mango and cardamom tart with coconut ice cream

Ideal for:

  • Those with a tolerance for spice

  • Authentic Indian dining

  • After pay day

 

Ambience & Décor


Jamavar utilises its bijou interior very well with the cosy feel giving an air of exclusivity. Fixtures and fittings were contemporary with a subtle Asian twist. Lovely dark coloured panelling giving a luxurious feel. The vibe for a Friday night was the antithesis of Michelin dining; raucous but relaxed vibe. Jamavar created good first impressions.


Service


I thought the service was commonplace, expecting a more polished unit. Perhaps it was the 9.30pm reservation, but table service towards the end seemed haphazard. Jamavar was teeming with diners, but Michelin service is meant to be more slick.


Food


Lobster Idli Sambhar

The Lobster Idli Sambhar was the standout starter. Idli (flat rice cake) and sambhar (lentil soup) are staple in South Indian dining. Within the sambhar was ample lobster pieces, which was a surprise. The aroma, taste and flavour combinations were unequivocal. The spice was aplenty giving this otherwise tame dish a delightful kick. Happily order this dish should I return.

Tellicherry Pepper & Garlic Soft Shell Crab

Tellicherry Pepper & Garlic Soft Shell Crab (right) was another culinary delight with a good portion. Served with damson chutney and garlic chips, the sweetness from the damson tempered the peppery spice. Luckily the wealth of spice did not detract from the fresh natural flavours of the crab.

Murgh Malligai

The Murgh Malligai (left) was tender boneless chicken, buttermilk, raw mango pachadi and ginger. The chicken was greatly crisped with the marinade hugging each morsel. Whilst the spice was eye-watering, the pachadi’s sweetness from the jaggery and sourness from the mangoes tempered it. For some the spice may be overpowering and some pieces were dry.

Duck Seekh Kebab

Duck Seekh Kebab (right) was an interesting facsimile to its lamb counterpart. Blindfolded, tasted like lamb but with a smoother texture. The Kashmiri chilli added the fragrance and ever-present heat but the mixed sprouts chaat was uninspiring The capers chutney gave good texture and provided some sweet relief.

Dakshini Jheenga

The tandoori prawns, Dakshini Jheenga (right), was one of the more visually appealing dishes. Served with the peanut & curry leaf chutney my companions said it was incredible. Sadly my allergies prevented a taste. The Murgh Nihari was free-range chicken, gram flour & fried onions. To be frank, the chicken swam a deluge of tasty chilli gravy but I wanted more meat for the price. Bog standard.

 Dum Nalli Biryani

The Dum Nalli Biryani with Hampshire lamb, basmati rice, crispy onion & fresh mint (right) was my favourite. Biryani cooked in the Dum style has a pastry top when cracked, reveals the content and unleashes a lovely aroma. The quality of lamb was superlative, the onions providing some texture and the mint gave it a freshness and a great twist. The buttery pastry was a culinary comfort. The ample portion combined with the beautiful flavours was gastronomic delight. The spice and heat was at a perfect level so none of the subtleties of the dish was lost.

mango and cardamom tart with coconut ice cream

A meal is never complete without dessert. The Special was the mango and cardamom tart with coconut ice cream (left). The mangoes were so juicy sweet, fresh and full of flavour with the cardamom providing the Indian spice to temper the sweetness. The coconut ice cream was unbelievably refreshing and was pleasant texture foil to the tart. All round balanced, tasty dessert.


Set in the affluence of Mayfair, Jamavar had to match its classy surroundings. On balance it does. The food is intriguing, flavoursome set in a classy interior with the service the only blemish. For some, the overuse of spice can be an issue. Given the steep bill at the end, I wanted more but do not be alarmed, this is a good Indian restaurant, earning Jamavar an A.


Photos of Jamavar and more can be found on Instagram here.

 

Final grade: A

Final comment: Delicious authentic Indian food in the heart of Mayfair.


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