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  • Writer's pictureAvi Sen

OXBO Bankside (London)

Updated: Feb 11

OXBO Bankside’s unlimited starters and desserts for their weekend brunch was the massive draw to the restaurant. COVID-19 has forced OXBO into a more toned-down version, but was it any good? Time to find out...

Assortment of brunch items

Ideal for:

  • Those who prefer a food-based brunch as opposed to alcohol driven one

  • Weekend brunch with mates or a date

  • Relaxed setting for a meal

 

Ambience & Décor


Due to COVID-19, the usual throng of diners was not present, and the ambience was as sombre as a fine dining experience. Nonetheless, the décor inside was fine dining-esque with plush carpeting, a plethora of dark mahogany wood and premium leather. Minimalist vibe but I liked it.


Service


Service was very professional and attentive despite COVID-19 restrictions still in place.


Food

Malted Pancakes

The brunch consisted of a platter of starters, a breakfast item you selected from the menu, a platter of lunch items (really taking the term “brunch” seriously) and a platter of desserts. In lieu of the buffet-style unlimited starter selection, OXBO brought all diners a selection of all starters on 1 plate. Visually, not the most appealing dish, and no real standouts either. You can make salads exciting with colour and flavour, but the dishes had neither. Disappointing.


The Malted Pancakes (see left) with berry compote maple syrup and whipped cream were nice in parts. The top pancake was dry, and I really needed the berry compote and whipped cream for the moisture – thankfully there were plenty of both accompaniments. The bottom pancake was the total opposite. If the compote and cream are the highlights, you are in trouble.

Assortment of Brunch Items

The mains selections of chicken, fish and vegetarian, were far more impressive. OXBO kept it simple but tasted fresh and was delicious. Roast Chicken, Buttered Kale, Wild Mushroom Sauce & Mashed Potatoes (see right) was up first. Chicken was moist, succulent, and well-seasoned, with a crispy exterior. The smooth, creamy mash and mushroom sauce added flavour and texture depth. The Baked Hake fillet, grilled courgettes & saffron risotto (right) was the best. The fish was perfectly cooked and moist – so easy to overcook such a delicate fish. The saffron risotto was not gloopy or stodgy, and packed plenty of flavour. The butterbean vegetarian dish I sampled and was a beautiful medley of flavours although the addition of steamed rice was bizarre and superfluous.

Chocolate Delice, Caramel ganache, Banana & Walnut cake, Vanilla & Blueberry bavarois

The platter of desserts was the highlight, with each offering bringing something totally different. Tang from the passionfruit drops, sweetness from the Chocolate Delice, Caramel ganache, savoury from the Banana & Walnut cake (see left) and bitterness from the chocolate dusting and blueberries in the Vanilla & blueberry bavarois (see left). Overall, it was a platter for all tastebuds, and each dessert was delicious.


Overall, OXBO’s brunch was a game of 2 halves. The starters and breakfast were poor, but the mains and desserts were more the standard you need to be at to attract customers. For £35 per person, I think the brunch is fantastic value. Overall, I think it’s a C+ rating.


Photos of OXBO Bankside and more can be found on Instagram here.

 

Final grade: C+

Final comment: A brunch of two halves that needs improving to compete in a crowded brunch space.


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