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Writer's pictureAvi Sen

ROKA Canary Wharf (London)

Updated: Feb 11

ROKA’s reputation has been rising in the past few years, and its success is evident. It has opened numerous branches and won industry awards but was it any good? Time to find out...

Sea bream fillet, red miso and red onion

Ideal for:

  • Japanese food enthusiasts

  • All Occasions

  • After pay day

 

Ambience & Décor

Roka Canary Wharf Interior

The interior design was synonymous with the classy clientele ROKA attracts. All fixtures and fittings were of the same tonal shade. Jars of multicoloured unidentifiable liquids sit perched on a beautifully crafted wooden shelving unit. A large frontal window bathes the the bar and entrance in ample light. The dining area behind was more aesthetic with the ubiquity of the dark coloured wood and an ornate back wall illuminated to accentuate the pattern work. The open kitchen was another feather in the cap of the dining room décor. Friday night parties and celebrations meant a vivacious vibe.


Service


The waitress was knowledgeable, made cracking suggestions and engaged in light banter. ROKA made the dining party feel very welcome and we were extremely well attended. Many restaurants in this price bracket could learn from the masterclass we received.


Food


ROKA's robatayaki cuisine was full of sophistication and intricacy in the flavour pairings and presentation. I have reviewed each dish ordered separately.

Butterfish tataki with yuzu shallot dressing

The Abura Bouzu No Tataki (left) was butterfish tataki with yuzu shallot dressing. The butterfish was incredibly tasty and juicy, pairing well with the lemon-based Yuzu, an exotic citrus that added freshness and bite to the fish. The sharpness and bitterness from the yuzu coupled well with sweetness and texture from the shallots. The soy and chilli base had saltiness and heat. One of the best items I had today.

Spicy fried soft shell crab with chilli and garlic

The Age Watari Gani (right) was spicy fried soft shell crab with chilli and garlic. Both taste and presentation was fantastic. Not too oily, and spiced enough to add heat, but not overwhelm the freshness from the crab. The adverse taste from the starchy batter combatted by the chilli and garlic. Despite the batter, it is still a must.


The Tai Miso-Yaki (top) was another good dish. The sea bream fillet, red miso and red onion was an aromatic concoction but lacked heat; all finesse and no fire. For the price, I wanted the whole fish than the fillet.

Baby chicken, lemon miso and garlic soy

Next up is the Hinadori no miso yaki (left), which was baby chicken, lemon miso and garlic soy. The marinade was sublime and the grill crisped the exterior beautifully, yet keeping the chicken moist underneath. The lovely smoky tones coupled with the explosion of flavour from the marinade and the additional kick from the lemon miso made for a great dish.


Sadly, due to allergies the prawn tempura Kuruma-Ebi, was off limits, but by all accounts it was not great.


Sadly, more disappointment as the Tori No Kamameshi rice hot pot with crispy chicken and shitake was average. This portion was too small for the price, the rice was incredibly starchy and there were too few chicken pieces. Flavour was palatable with the garlic, mirin and sake used in a Kamameshi recipe evident.

Spiced chicken wings with salt and lime

The final pre-dessert dish was the Tori No Tebasaki (right) spiced chicken wings with salt and lime. The sesame and sticky sauce enveloping the crispy coating hid a succulent chicken that combined, was a culinary treat, and visually one of the more appetising dishes. For the price, the portion could have been bigger, but this is a fine dining trait. The wings could also do with some heat.


The Yuzu Tsubo with ginger biscuit dessert had a refreshing apple sorbet and well made biscuits, but it was a palate cleanser that had no real 'wow' factor like some of the other desserts on show, which left me feeling short changed.


ROKA Canary Wharf was a good meal. Fantastic décor, superlative service and Japanese dishes full of flavour, sophistication and visual appeal. However, many of the dishes had faults, and for the price paid, you expect better. Despite this, I recommend ROKA Canary Wharf, and as such it gets a B+ rating.


Photos of ROKA Canary Wharf and more can be found on Instagram here.

 

Final grade: B+

Final comment: ROKA has good food, service and décor, but it does come at a price.


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